To thin out curly hair, have it cut dry, curl by curl, and take out weight by removing whole curls from the hidden underneath layers or adding long, soft layers. Avoid hacking through it with thinning shears. Then style with a defining gel so your curls clump into fewer, bigger groups, which looks less bulky.
Why Curly Hair Gets So Bulky
Curly strands don’t lie flat against each other. Curly hair has an elliptical cross-section and twists at many points along each strand, and the tight bends make it harder to comb without causing frizz (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015). Each curl takes up more room than a straight strand of the same length, so thick curly hair builds volume fast.
The cut makes it worse when all the hair is one length. The weight sits at the bottom, the curls stack on top of each other and the shape widens into a triangle. Thinning out curly hair is mostly about moving that weight, not removing lots of hair.
Cut it dry. Wet hair stretches: undamaged hair can be stretched by about 30% of its length without harm (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015), and curls pulled straight while wet spring back much shorter once they dry. Cutting dry curls lets you see where each one actually sits.
How to Thin Out Thick Curly Hair: 4 Ways
| Method | What it does | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Curl-by-curl weight removal | Cuts selected curls from the inside and underneath layers shorter, so the top layer falls over them | Very thick hair that puffs out at the sides |
| Long, soft layers | Spreads the length out so the weight isn’t all at the ends | Triangle shape, curls that look flat on top |
| Nape undercut | Removes a section of hair at the back of the neck, hidden under the rest | Very dense hair, hot climates |
| Defining gel | Groups strands into fewer, larger clumps instead of a cloud of single strands | Hair you don’t want to cut |
How to thin out curly hair at home
- Wash and style your hair the way you usually wear it, and let it dry completely.
- Clip the top layer up and out of the way.
- From the underneath layer, pick one curl at a time where your hair is bulkiest, usually the sides and the back.
- Cut that curl at a length where it will stay hidden under the top layer, a few centimetres at a time.
- Let the top down, shake it out and check in the mirror before you take any more.
Use sharp hairdressing scissors for curly hair, not kitchen or craft scissors. Take less than you think you need: you can always cut more, and curls take months to grow back.
Should You Use Thinning Shears on Curly Hair?
Usually not on the lengths. Thinning shears cut some of the hairs in a section short at random points. On straight hair those short pieces blend in. On curly hair they no longer reach the end of their curl, so they curl up on their own and stand out from the clump, the same way short new hairs stick up as halo frizz. Many people find their hair looks puffier, not thinner, after a thinning-shear cut.
If a stylist does use them, ask that they stay close to the root on the underneath layer, where the short pieces are covered. For curly hair it is better to book a stylist who cuts curls dry and curl by curl.
Trimming the ends helps too. Split ends start where the cuticle has worn away and the inner cortex splits along its length (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015), and frayed, see-through ends make curls look frizzy and shapeless. A light dusting of the damaged ends removes them.
How to Make Curly Hair Look Less Thick Without Cutting
Gel is the main tool here. Styling polymers dry into a thin film that bonds neighbouring hairs together (McMullen et al., 2023), so your curls set as defined clumps instead of a mass of single strands. Fewer, bigger clumps look less voluminous. A medium-hold gel such as Curls B Defined Curl Defining Gel gives definition without a hard cast.
- Apply your styler to soaking wet hair, then scrunch it in so the curls form clumps.
- Don’t touch your hair while it dries, and skip the root-lifting tricks you’d use for more volume.
- Condition every wash. Conditioners decrease friction and minimize frizz (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015), and less frizz means less width.
- Part your hair deeper to one side, or wear it half up, to move the volume where you want it.
FAQ
Should curly hair be thinned out wet or dry?
Dry. Curls shrink as they dry, so a cut that looks right on wet, stretched hair can end up shorter and patchier once it dries. Cutting dry hair shows you where each curl really falls.
How often should you thin out curly hair?
When the shape has grown out and the bulk is back, rather than on a fixed schedule. For most people that lines up with their regular trim.
Does thinning curly hair make it frizzy?
It can if it’s done with thinning shears through the lengths, because the short pieces stick out of the curl. Removing whole curls from underneath, or adding layers, takes out weight without leaving those short ends.
Can I thin out curly hair myself?
Yes, in small amounts. Work on dry, styled hair, take curls only from the underneath layer and check the shape often. For a big change, or if your hair is very dense, a curly-hair stylist will get a more even result.
